Antwerp’s MoMu spotlighted in 2013 the Abraham Silk Company’s textile archive.
" Silks & Prints from the Abraham Archive - Couture in Colour " tells the story of the
iconic Swiss silk converter, which was a key player within European haute couture throughout the 20th
century.
A snapshot view, directly from the Flemish city of fashion and art, heralding the collection of masterpiece silks and
unique patterns from past glamour times.
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Abraham_Textile_Archive.pdf
1. Antwerp’s MoMu spotlights the Abraham Silk Company’s textile archive, currently on loan from the Swiss
National Museum Zurich. Silks & Prints from the Abraham Archive - Couture in Colour tells the story of the
iconic Swiss silk converter, which was a key player within European haute couture throughout the 20th
century.
Stylesight visited the Flemish city of fashion and art to explore the collection of masterpiece silks and
unique patterns. The exhibit is open until August 11, 2013.
2. Displayed within a sleek contemporary setting, the exhibition pays homage to both Abraham Silk Company and one
of its pioneering leaders, Gustav Zumsteg. Complementing the wealth of heritage textile coupons, swatches and
scrapbooks, vintage photographs and authentic couture silhouettes by Dior, Givenchy, Saint Laurent and
Balenciaga highlight the craftsmanship of Abraham silk.
3. Dating back to 1878 and based in Zurich, Abraham Silk Company came under the direction of Gustav Zumsteg in
the 1950s, when it gained notoriety as a key supplier to Paris haute couture houses. In the ‘60s, Abraham shifted
from haute couture to RTW. In 2002, the firm closed its doors, leaving an impressive legacy. Highlighting 50 years
of textile ingenuity, Zumsteg’s collection (which includes swatchbooks and photography) is an unparalleled
inspiration for textile and fashion designers, artists and couturiers.
4. Flowers, especially roses, are quintessentially Abraham.
Warp-print failles and plain weaves feature natural or abstract rose compositions / Taffeta / Over-scaled motifs /
Mixed techniques of rose print on dot jacquard silk crepe
5. Abraham’s luxe jacquards and prints with gold and silver yarn fusions, are the preserve of French haute couture
collections.
Printed duchess satin / Double-faced satin with gold threads / Quilted or velvety lamé / Rich paisley, flower and
Baroque upholstery motif repeats / Brocades / Jewel colors
6. The unbridled joie de vivre mood of the sixties and seventies influenced Abraham silks.
Blown up designs / Gigantic “flower power” take on conventional repeats in lightweight gazar, organdy and organza
7. Abraham offers remarkably refined interpretations of animal patterns on varied silk grounds.
Mimicked animal patterns / Abstraction and illusion plays / Printed faille and velvet / Jacquard bases receive stylized
animal-skin designs / Lamé crepe georgette silk / Satin muslin
8. Abraham exploited classic checks via print repeats and motif restyling.
Crepe, gazar (an Abraham favorite) and satin bases / Refined color palettes / Check prints on jacquard grounds
9. Interactions between positive and negative space inspired Abraham silk collections for decades.
Quilted weaves, lacquered and embroidered / Warp print plains and faille / Printed jacquard grounds / Dots, circles,
loops and knotted lines are recurring black and white motifs