Travel2Japan Vol 2 highlights the Ogasawara Islands, 1000 km south of Tokyo, focusing on Chichijima and Hahajima. Culinary Travel is highlighted in "The Izakaya Way of Life". The Namahage of Oda (fearsome mountain apparitions) as well as the beauty of Yamadera, are also featured.

1. Travel2Japan!
Celebrating the Joy of Discovering Japan
January 2014
In this issue:
The Galapagos of the Orient
The Izakaya Way of Life
Culinary Bliss in Tohoku
The Namahage of Oga
Yamadera: Spirits in the Sky
Travel2Japan is a TalkingTravel.ca Publication

2. Volume 2, Number 1
January, 2014
Greetings from the Editor-in-Chief
These are a few of my favourite things
Page 2
The Galapagos of the Orient
Tokyo’s Ogasawara Islands
Page 3
The Izakaya Way of Life
Seeking the Perfect Local Dining experience
Page 9
Culinary Bliss in Tohoku
A photographic Essay
Page 14
The Namahage of Oga
Friendly Ogres usher in the New Year
Page 17
Yamadera
Spirits in the Sky
Page 23
Nebuta Festival Float
The Warasse Nebuta House, Aomori, Tohoku
Back Cover
Cover Photo: Associate Editor, Mitsuru Sasaki in full Namahage costume
Travel2Japan is a Talking Travel publication. Talking Travel’s mandate is to engage consumers in the value of travel,
exploration and discovery as well as to transform travel professionals into destination masters through skill
development that translates into revenue generation.
Talking Travel publications are owned, operated and published by Steve Gillick. All Rights Reserved. Protected by
International and Canadian Copyright Law. Travel2Japan can be shared, forwarded, cut and pasted but not sold,
resold or in any way monetized. Permission is required for the use of any images or content from Travel2Japan
©Steve Gillick
Please note that: Steve Gillick and Talking Travel are not responsible for outcomes based on how the ideas
presented in this Magazine are interpreted or used. Travel2Japan, 500 Duplex Ave., Ste 2210
Toronto, ON Canada M4R 1V6
To subscribe to this publication for free or for inquiries, please contact
media@travel2japan.ca

3. Steve Gillick: Writer, Photographer and Editor
Three weeks of Sheer Enjoyment
Part of the beauty of exploring Japan is that there is
always something new to see, taste and experience. In
November 2013, with the support of the City of Tokyo, I
ventured to the Ogasawara Islands.
Once on Chichijima, we were overwhelmed at the
friendly nature of just about everyone we met. Our
tours were filled with beautiful scenery, wild octopus
trees, hidden beaches and walking trails. On our
second evening we joined a small group to look for
bats and glowing mushrooms. The bats were hiding
that night but we did manage to find one fluorescent
mushroom as well as huge hermit crabs on the beach.
Our cruise around the island—a snorkeler’s, scuba
diver’s and swimmer’s paradise—was also, for me, a
wonderful photographic opportunity.
We also visited Hahajima—known for its walking/hiking
trails and unique species of flora and fauna that not
only gave rise to the nickname-the Galapagos of the
Orient-but also contributed to the UNESCO natural
heritage designation.
After returning to Tokyo, we enjoyed ten days
exploring the Tohoku Region, with the support of the
Japan National Tourism Organization.
Aizuwakamatsu. We stayed at the Kutzurogijuku
Chiotaki. This is a first class onsen hotel—the hot
bath is on the top floor so at night you get the vista of
the city, below, while you are soaking in the soothing
waters. And the food is fresh, local and excellent.
We spent one day in the popular market town of
Oouchijuku before returning to visit the sake
breweries, the samurai house and the castle.
Yamadera. The 1000-step climb to the top of the
mountain is not too taxing and on the way, in the
Autumn, you see beautiful changing leaves, small
temples, shrines and Jizo statues. It really is an
experience of a lifetime.
Sendai. The Westin is a great place to stay—very
close to the train station—amazing view from the
rooms—very friendly service. We visited nearby
Matsushima --so pretty—and so much to see—as
well as Shiogame—with its incredibly fresh seafood.
Hiraizumi. Rent bicycles to visit the two temple
areas. Again the autumn leaves wholly
complemented the temples, the tall trees, the not-too-
difficult mountain climb and the pond.
Morioka. The highlight included the main temple and
a wonderful evening at Torayah Izakaya
Namahage (see the story in this magazine)
Hirosaki: The castle, temple street and the Neputa
Museum are must sees.
Aomori: Our tour guide, Qiu was terrific and he took
us to so many interesting places that showcase the
history, art and cuisine of the region. The Nebuta
Museum (see back cover) is simply excellent.
Back in Tokyo we stayed at one of our favourite
properties, the Courtyard by Marriott Tokyo Ginza
Hotel: Great comfort, service and location.
r Other adventures in Tohoku will be covered in the
.Spring edition of Travel2Japan.
And every day was filled with amazing “new things”. I
say that because the trend in travel today concentrates
on “what else” you can do. And in Tohoku there is no
much.
A Shinto turtle protects a grave in the Matsudaira
family cemetery in Aizuwakamatsu

4. And Now for Something Completely Different
inTokyo Prefecture…
I’ll admit that the one thing that stood between
me and the Ogasawara Islands, which lie 1000
km to the south of Tokyo and are part of Tokyo
Prefecture, was the mode of transportation.
The only way to access the Islands is by Ferry
and the ride takes 25 ½ hours each way,
assuming the weather and the ocean
cooperate. Despite lingering memories of not-so-
pleasant past experiences, I decided to be
bold and confirm the arrangements for the trip.
In preparation for the ride I marched into the
local drug store and purchased trans-dermal
patches to be applied behind the ear, as well as
sea-bands—to stimulate the acupressure points
on both wrists, as well as Gravol tablets-just in
case the first two solutions didn’t work, and
then, for good measure, a bottle of Advil, just in
case the whole affair gave me a headache.
Heart Rock, Chichijima
I don’t think I went overboard with my concerns.
All my fears were for naught and my decision to
proceed with the trip was more than affirmed
with engaging people, amazing scenery,
delicious food and adventure!
Known for many years as the Bonin Islands
(from the Japanese word bunin, meaning ‘no
people’ or ‘uninhabited’), Ogasawara takes its
name from Ogasawara Sadayori who claimed
(some say falsely) to have been granted the
islands in 1593.
Ogasawara itself is an archipelago of over 30
subtropical and tropical islands, with only two of
them inhabited: Chichijima, or Father Island,
has a population of roughly 2000 and Hahajima,
or Mother Island, has a population of 400.
A similar article appeared in the November 13, 2013
edition of www.travelindustrytoday.com

5. Our tour guide, Katchan, offers a taste of
the fruit from the Octopus tree.
The attractions of
Ogasawara lay in
secluded beaches,
hiking, boating, sailing,
snorkeling, scuba diving,
sea-kayaking, whale-watching,
swimming with
wild dolphins, fishing,
conservation, as well as
the sheer uniqueness of
experiencing the
destination (what many
travellers refer to as the
‘what else’ in travel).
Plus it is important to
note that the Ogasawara
group was formed by
underwater volcanoes 48
million years ago and were never attached to a
land mass. They became home to a number of
unique species of flora and fauna, a fact that
has given rise to the nickname, The Galapagos
of the Orient’.
After spending a few days in Tokyo, we arrived
at Takeshiba Pier on a cool November day and
at 10:00 am we departed on the Ferry, the
Ogasawara Maru. Our First Class room was on
the 2nd level and contained two bunk beds, a
window, and a small television.
And what do you do for 25½
hours? Well, when you take
into consideration time for
napping, eating, becoming
mesmerized by the emptiness
of the ocean and the swelling
of the waves, taking photos,
watching some television,
reading, chatting, people-watching,
having an Asahi
Beer or two and sleeping,
then all of a sudden it’s 11:30
am the next day and exactly
25½ hours after we left Tokyo,
we arrived in Chichijima.
We checked into the Seafront
Hotel (about an 8-minute walk
from the Ferry Dock-it’s a very small town). It
offered basic accommodation but it was neat
and clean and afforded a nice view of the main
street from our balcony. We then roamed the
town and settled on a Ramen restaurant for a
delicious bowl of mixed seafood ramen.
Back at the hotel Katchan, our guide from the
Nature Academy introduced himself and we set
off for an orientation tour of the island. We
stopped at amazing lookouts to enjoy vistas of
the city, the harbour and the smaller islands in
the area.
Marujo is a traditional Izakaya with excellent seafood and a friendly, decorative atmosphere

6. Kaisen Ramen for Lunch Mixed Sashimi at Marujo
We learned about Octopus trees (the many root
shoots resemble Octopus arms) and tasted the
tangy fruit. We found hidden, beautiful sand
and rocky beaches where snorkelers were
exploring the waters, and we discovered
Second World War military buildings almost
completely hidden by the forest.
That evening we had dinner at Marujo, a
seafood izakaya (restaurant/bar) and enjoyed
fresh sushi and sashimi, including two
traditional island specialties: kame sashimi
(raw turtle) and shimazushi, made with sawara
(also called wahoo) fish, marinated in soy
sauce and prepared with spicy mustard (as
opposed to wasabi). It was so good.
The next morning we discovered the bakery. A
small crowd gathered in anticipation of the 6:30
am opening. The sweet smell of freshly baked
buns and pastries got the better of us so we sat
on the porch for a breakfast of coffee and
baked goodie. Then we hopped across the road
to the harbour and met our cruise boat, the Pink
Dolphin for the seven-hour circle tour of the
island. This was a day of absolute
wonderment; sunshine, incredible land
formations, wild dolphins cavorting with
snorkelers, secluded sandy beaches,
mysterious caves, curious albatrosses, two
smiling goats, and three foot waves that quickly
calmed down to resemble a soothing, rolling,
carpet.
Sampling Kame Sushi (Raw Turtle) one
of the traditional dishes
Shima Zushi with hot mustard:
an Ogasawara speciality

7. The cruise provided the opportunity to swim,
snorkel, photograph and become absolutely
entranced by the features of the island that
contributed to the Ogasawara group being
named a UNESCO Natural World Heritage site
in 2011.
One of the more interesting sites that we passed
a few times, was the Heart Rock—a rocky
formation boasting a red-tinged heart-shaped
figure. (see P.3) We had passed by the Heart
Rock Café in town, but thought it was just a
touristy take-off on the famous Hard Rock chain.
In actuality, it was a celebration of the local
Heart Rock!
The following day, after another tasty bakery
breakfast, we boarded the Hahajima-Maru for
the two-hour ferry ride to Hahajima Island, 50
km to the south. While Chichijima is known for
its beaches, Hahajima is known for hiking and
trekking. Our guide Tamotsu Hayakawa, a
very knowledgeable and affable 69 year old
naturalist met us at the Ferry to begin out day of
exploration.
In short, it was an awesome experience.
Hayakawa had worked for many years toward
the preservation of the Hahajima Meguro (also
known as the Bonin White Eye), a small yellow
bird with white circles around its dark eyes.
Today, the entire population of 14,000 birds can
only be found on Hahajima. Hayakawa was a
master of bird calls and with his help we were
able to find and photograph a few Meguro
during the day.
But he also had oodles of energy and while we
were huffing and puffing to follow him up the
sometimes steep mountain paths and
staircases, he seemed to ascend effortlessly.
We passed through forests of tangled trees and
fan leaf plants, each vying for the attention of
the sunlight, stood on Mount Kofuji to gaze at
Tamotsu Hayakawa, our Hahajima guide
Mitsuru Sasaki on the walk to Mount Kofuji

8. the blue ocean water, the rocky islands and the
crescent shape of Minamizaki Beach far below.
We clamoured through a cave, still housing
rusting guns from the Second World War, and
then descended to the beach itself to listen to
the waves, look at the corals and shells that had
washed up, and take in more beautiful scenery.
After an overnight at the
Nanpu Hotel it was time to
head back to Chichijima
and then catch the ferry for
Tokyo. When we departed
Chichijima, it seemed like
half the town turned out,
with everyone waving,
bidding their friends and
relatives a safe trip, and
even featuring a Taiko
drum performance. Then
a flotilla of seven yachts
followed the Ferry to the
harbour entrance. It was
such a warm and heartfelt departure that it made
us sad to be leaving.
While the islands are mostly geared toward
Japanese-speaking visitors, they do attract
Europeans, Americans and in this case, one
Canadian. Still, I managed to find people who
spoke a bit of English and mixed with my even
less bit of Japanese, I had a
wonderful time.
The Ogasawara Islands are
most likely a destination that
few travellers--and even travel
agents--know about, but they
do deserve attention.
Throughout the trip I kept
thinking of the Monty Python
line…And now for something
completely different”. In the
case of the Ogasawara
Islands, this is absolutely true.
For more information, visit
www.ogasawarakaiun.co.jp/english/guide/ Our
journey to Ogasawara was supported by the Tokyo
Metropolitan Government and the Tokyo
Convention & Visitors Bureau
The Hahajima Meguro
The entrance to Minamijima Beach, Chichijima

9. Top Left: The Captain of the Ogasaware-Maru, Isami Takahashi; Top Middle: Lining up for the opening of the
bakery on Chichijima; Top Right: Crab Crossing signs can be found on both islands; Middle Left: “Gyosun” or
“Fish Sandals”. Everyone on the islands wears them. Middle Right: The final ascent of Mount Kofuji, Hahajima;
Bottom Right: A WWII gun in a hidden cave overlooking Minamizaki Beach and the Pacific Ocean, Hahajima;
Bottom Left: One of the many picturesque rock Islands as you circle Chichijima.

10. Everyone was crying! Tears were literally
streaming down the faces of the three
businessmen at the table behind me as well as
the woman who was sitting at the counter to my
left. The izakaya owner’s wife was crying; her
daughter was mopping away her own tears, and
my two companions and I could hardly talk. The
only thing that distinguished this scene from a sad
movie or tragic event was the fact that we were
also convulsed in laughter.
This was my fourth visit to Tsuzuku, a tiny 14-seat
izakaya, located on a side street in one of the
residential areas of Tokyo. In a lot of ways it is
typical of an old-style izakaya, or restaurant/bar.
In fact the name izakaya is derived from “i”
meaning ‘to stay’ and “sakaya”
meaning ‘sake shop’. Izakayas were originally
way-stations for people to relax and enjoy a cup
or more of sake. Today, most izakayas serve
food—either a general menu of seafood and
yakitori (grilled meat, fish or vegetables on a
skewer) or they specialize in one type of food.
Tsuzuku is a seafood izakaya and finding fresher,
better prepared seafood would be a challenge.
Tonight we savoured the assorted sashimi (raw
seafood), enjoyed the ‘okara’ (a traditional dish
made from soy beans) and indulged in the
delicate flavour of ‘sake no harasu yaki’ (the fatty
parts of grilled salmon). We tried ‘harmonica’,
grilled back-fin of tuna –so crispy and tasty. And
then, as the sobbing reached a crescendo, we
decided to try the house specialty, ‘Wasabi
Meshi’. This delicious treat
A shorter version of this article appeared in www.travelindustrytoday.com
We discovered Ohanabo by wandering
the small streets of Sendai. The Izakaya
is very friendly (as you can see) with a
very good selection of sake and very
tasty, fresh food!
THE IZAKAYA WAY OF LIFE

11. consisted of a bowl of steamed rice in which a lot (and I mean, a lot)
of freshly grated wasabi root is mixed. Wasabi is often likened to
horseradish. It is pungently hot.
The owner’s wife was crying because she was grilling the food. It
was cold outside so the vents were closed and the smoky cloud
arising from the grill was reaching cumulus proportions. The
daughter was crying because she was energetically grating the
wasabi root to add to the rice and, just like peeling onions, the wasabi
‘fumes’ filled the air. The businessmen behind me were the first to
taste the Wasabi Meshi. They immediately put down their chopsticks
to wipe away the tears and the sweat rolling down their faces. When
we looked at them, they burst out in laughter, which set the tone for
the rest of the patrons, including the woman at the counter to my left,
who was having difficulty seeing, because her eyes were so red from
the rice dish. And my companions and I joined in the party—mostly
because the rice is incredibly tasty, and if you can get through the
first few bites, things begin to calm down a bit.
After my first tearful venture into the rice, the owner’s daughter told
me to eat it with seaweed to absorb some of the heat. I delicately
plucked some seaweed from a plastic container with my chopsticks
and was quickly reprimanded with “No no! Take a handful like this…”
as she took a fistful of shredded seaweed and threw it on top of my
rice. Of course more laughter ensued. Then the owner’s wife started
to hand out bananas, which also tend to mellow the piquant bite of
the wasabi. So now we are all crying, laughing and eating bananas
in a seafood izakaya. Ahhh…travel memories!
But it was, in a way, typical of many evenings spent in izakayas. Of
course there are large independent and chain Izakayas throughout
the country but the smaller ones tend to have a personality all their
own. Once people found out that I was from Canada (in all cases I
was the only non-Japanese patron) then everyone would try out their
English, or speak with my companions to find out more about Canada
or why I was in Japan or what we had seen on our travels so far.
Here are just a few examples of memorable izakayas:
Jo-Ki-Gen: This is a standing seafood/sake bar (i.e. no seats) in the
Shinbashi area of Tokyo, not too far from Ginza. The place is
extremely popular with locals so you have to arrive before 5:30 pm if
you want a good spot at the counter. The chef/owner is a fisherman
with a very engaging personality. The individually prepared dishes
are excellent and the sake selection is very good too. The place
‘stands” about 10 comfortably but can accommodate up to 30 people.
Recommendation: The sashimi combo.
Ohana-bo: We were wandering down small side streets in the city of
Sendai and noticed this tiny izakaya. We gave it a try and it turned
out to be excellent. The very friendly owner/chef expertly prepares
the seafood dishes, but the yakitori is amazing. Recommendation:
tsukuneh (grilled minced meat with teriyaki sauce on a skewer). It
was served fresh, hot and so delicious that we ordered more.
Top Photo: Tsuzuku’s famous Wasabi Rice. 2nd: Grabbing handfuls of nori (seaweed) to soak
up some of the heat in the dish. 3rd. Lots of nori helps! 4th: Tears flow 5th: Bananas are
distributed to further lessen the effects of the Wasabi 6th: Steve Gillick, red eyed but happy.

12. Left: Shamesen player at Tsugaru Joppari Ryoya Sakaba in Aormori Right: Kazuhiro Matsuda, the owner/chef at Hiransho in Aizu Wakamatsu
Hai-ran-sho: A very friendly place in Aizu
Wakamatsu with a young chef/owner who
recently took over from his father. It’s a very
small izakaya with lots of chatter and laughter.
Recommendation: The assorted sashimi. The
place has a great selection of Tohoku……….
Region Try Snow Drop-which is a sake made
with Yogurt—sweet, creamy and refreshing
after a meal.
YY: Sometimes serendipity plays a part in
finding great places to eat. We arrived in
Hirosaki at night, checked into our hotel and
then asked the concierge for an Izakaya. She
indicated one that was all of a five minute walk
away. But it was closed…so we walked back to
the hotel and asked for another suggestion.
She mentioned the YY Izakaya—just next door
to the first suggestion. She said it was local
and had decent food. It turned out to be
another amazing evening. We tried Joppari
Sake –very dry, clean and clear. We sampled
Kai no Misoyaki (grilled scallops with miso)
And other local dishes including Ikano Goroyaki
(squid grilled in squid ink and special sauces),
Grilled white fish with Miso and Shishamo
(small fish with eggs inside—you eat
everything!)
Torayah: Just north of the castle and temple in
the city of had Morioka, we walked into an old
izakaya where just about every seat was
occupied by businessmen. As the crowd slowly
headed home, we started to chat with the
owner and then other patrons became
interested in the Canadian connection. By the
time we left several hours later, we were taking
photos with the owner and her daughter and
some of the other ‘regulars’. It was one of
those comfortable evenings where everyone
interacted like old friends—with ourselves
included. And the food was amazing.
Recommendation: the Octopus and Scallop
sashimi, but literally everything was great.
Left: The staff, the food and the atmosphere at Torayah in Morioka are wonderful Right: YY Izakaya in Hirosaki—delicious food and very friendly

13. Aomori Tsugaru Joppari Ryoya Sakaba
When in Aomori, look for the three huge Nebuta
heads and you will have found this Izakaya.
(The Nebuta festival takes place in the autumn
and attracts thousands of people to watch the
colourful floats). The Izakaya is pretty good—
you sit at a large squared counter, the service is
very attentive, the food (lots of local dishes) is
tasty and well prepared and at some point
during the meal a sameshin (three-stringed
instrument) player will serenade the diners. It’s
a fun, relaxed place
to spend an
evening.
Also on my list:
On my many trips
to Japan, I’ve had
some great Izakaya
experiences. So as
not to leave them
out of my “Izakaya
Way of Life” list, I
would like to at
least mention them.
 Yasubei –Yokohama—specializes in
Yakatori. Have been there a few times.
 Saka-eya—a tiny Izakaya in Yokohama
with incredibly good food.
 The Niseko Club, Niseko Village
(Hokkaido)—try the grilled Hokke—very
friendly service too.
 Goro (Niigata)—excellent food. This is a
larger Izakaya but the service is very
personal. Need to make reservations a
few days in advance.
 Kurokawa,
Fukuoka-a
large, popular
Izakaya with
lots of energy
and really good
food.
 Shinki is an
Izakaya chain.
We had a really
enjoyable lunch
at the Mitaka
location.
We tried Snow Drop Sake in Aizu
Wakamatsu—it’s sweet but potent
Joppari Sake has a clear, clean and
crisp taste—and a great label!

14. Sakaeya, in Yokohama
And there are dozens of small izakayas that are rarely visited by tourists, partially due to the
language issue, but also there is a bit of an intimidation factor i.e. walking into a 14-seat
restaurant filled with chatting locals. But just about every time we discovered such an izakaya, we
ended up having a memorable evening. And a hint: Sit at the counter, if possible. That’s where
the interaction takes place between the chef and the patrons and between the patrons
themselves.
What I refer to as ‘the izakaya way of life’ is a reflection of the current trend in travel to
experience, taste, talk, listen, learn, laugh and go beyond the stereotype of the tourist watching
the scenery. It is a way of becoming part of the scenery and enhancing the enjoyment and
meaningfulness of your travels exponentially. Achieving culinary nirvana involves more than the
freshness and quality of the food. It’s a holistic encounter of travel, food, culinary talent,
atmosphere, relaxation, conversation, wonderment and awe.
The counter is the place to be at
Hairansho in Aizu Wakamatsyu

15. CULINARY BLISS IN TOHOKU’S
RESTAURANTS & IZAKAYAS
Mixed Chirashi Domburi at Kaisen Shokudo Yamato, in Shiogame

16. The scallops that you catch and grill yourself at Hotate Gya in Aomori
are so large, you can hardly fit them in your mouth
Tsukune is grilled minced meat Yakitori with a special sauce.
Hairansho Izakaya in Aizu Wakamatsu makes some of the best

17. 1
2
3
4
5
6
1) Negi (leak)Soba from Misawaya in Ouchijuku 2) Grilled rice with special miso sauce in Ouchijuku 3) Butter Squid from
Hairansho Izakaya, Aizu Wakamatsu 4) Miso Yaki (Grilled white fish) from YY Izakaya, Hirosaki 5) Kushi Yaki Sakana—
grilled fish on a stick from the market in Ouchijuku 6) Tempura Soba from Taki Fudo Nama Soba in Yamadera

19. THE NAMAHAGE OF OGA
A disturbing and sinister moaning is getting louder as it approaches your home. Loud banging
is followed by a crash as the entrance door is flung open and two horrendous figures tramp into
your house. They are dressed in coats of straw. Their feet are bound in straw sandals. They
carry a small bucket in one hand and a menacing carving knife in the other. They are wearing
scary red or blue masks depicting expressions evil, horror and dread. Fangs protrude from their
mouths. They yell out questions in an accusatory way as they clomp toward the stove or the
fireplace. “Are there any cry babies around”? “Are there any naughty kids here”? ”Any lazy
people neglecting their work”?
The children are either hiding in fear, crying at the shock of seeing these frightening intruders—
or nervously laughing at the anticipated arrival of the Namahage (pronounced Nom-a-hah-gay)
on New Years Eve, December 31st.
The Namahage trace their beginnings to the 1st Century BC, when Emperor Wu arrived in Japan
from China, along with five evil ogres. Ogres appear in mythology and folklore as large,
monster-like creatures that commit atrocities against human beings.

20. In Emperor Wu’s case, the ogres
descended from their mountain homes to
the villages on the Oga Peninsula in
northern Japan whereupon they stole crops
as well as young women.
The villagers came up with a proposal to
which the Ogres agreed. If the Ogres could
build a flight of 1000 steps from the village
to the top of the mountain in one night, then
they would be provided with whatever they
wanted. However if the Ogres failed, then
they would have to leave forever. The
Ogres set to work diligently building the
staircase. As they completed the 999th
step, one of the villages imitated the call of
the rooster and the Ogres, thinking that
dawn had arrived and they had failed at
their task, fled the village, never to return.
The actual word ‘Namahage’ refers to heat
blisters—sores that lazy people get from idly
sitting around the fire for too long, and the
task of the Namahage is to confront the
guilty and get them to change their ways
before the coming of the New Year. Some
believe the Namahage have an agricultural
significance, as they bring with them wishes
for healthy and abundant crops in the year
ahead. Many consider the Namahage to be
spirits (kami) or deities and that their
appearance on New Years Eve carries with
it, blessings of good health and prosperity
for the family.
Today, in villages such as Oga, New Years
Eve is an exciting time where part of the
tradition of ‘new beginnings’ includes a visit
from 2-3 young men dressed as Namahage.
They check with each household
beforehand to ensure that no one in the
home is ill, elderly or pregnant, so as not to
upset them, and they also receive some
The Namahage enter a home, stomping and wailing

21. advance hints from parents regarding any
issues that need to be addressed during the
visit.
If a child is not doing their homework or a
member of the family is not pulling his/her
weight in doing the chores, then the
Namahage build this into their frightening
talk as they look around the house for
anyone who may be hiding. (Think of it as a
version of the lyrics “He sees you when
you’re sleeping/he knows when you’re
awake/ he knows if you’ve been bad or
good so be good for goodness sake).
And when the Namahage are finished, they
sit down with the head of the household to
be appeased and re-assured that those who
need to change their ways, will do as the
Namahage have warned. This discussion
includes the hospitality of food and a cup or
two of sake.
I was fortunate to visit the town of Oga in
Akita Prefecture in the Tohoku Region of
Japan in late November. It’s a bit out of the
way: It took us four hours to get there from
the city of Morioka but it was a relaxing
journey by train past mountains and forests
festooned in colourful autumn leaves.
Finally at Oga train station, we hopped on
the Namahage Museum bus. We elected to
get off early at the small building known as
the 10,000 Buddhas of Shinzan, which
dates to 1714. Miniature, carved, wooden
Jizo statues (representing the Bodhisattva
who decided to postpone Buddhahood until
all could be saved) cover the walls and
ceilings. A place of protection, peace and
comfort for troubled souls
From there it was a 20-minute walk down
the road to the Namahage Musuem.
It was a dull, dank, dark, dreary afternoon
and it seemed to complement the
atmosphere of visiting displays of ogres and
ghostly apparitions. But the first order of
business was to dress up like a Namahage
in straw cloak, shoes and masks (there
were very few visitors in the museum so we
did not have to fight off any kids who may

22. also have also wanted to dress-up). After the mandatory photos,
we entered the exhibit hall filled with Namahage figures
representing New Years traditions in the different villages on the
Peninsula. The eerie soundtrack whispering ‘whoa, whoa’ as if it
was a weird, whistling, supernatural chant, filled the hall.
I have to admit that as a serious collector and admirer of masks, I
was in seventh heaven. During my stay I’m pretty sure that I took
a photo of each of the 100+ masks on display.
We visited the Museum theatre to watch a performance depicting
a typical Namahage encounter on New Years Eve. After noisily
stomping their way into the home, the Namahage sought out the
kids in the audience, only to be greeted with smiles, giggles, and
feigned terror, as the parents had told their kids beforehand hat
to expect. The visitors then sat down with the head of the
household to ‘negotiate’ for better behaviour in the New Year and
then, appeased with a cup of sake, they grimaced at the kids in
the audience once again and then departed.
It would not have been a complete visit without ascending the
stairs to the mountain shrine (not a very high climb at all) to pay
tribute to the kami (spirits). On the return, the outdoor restaurant
‘shack’ was open so we dropped in for a traditional snack of
Shinzan Sake (named after the Shrine and the Mountain) and a
taste of Gohei Mochi (grilled sticky rice that has been coated with
a special miso sauce).
Afterward we then had the pleasure of meeting with Chiaki
Ishikawa, one of the expert mask makers and watching him put
the finishing touches on one of the carved wooden masks. There
is a souvenir shop that sells masks of all sizes.
The days surrounding New Years represent an occasion for
many societies and cultures to toss out the old, say farewell to
bad luck, promise to turn a new leaf and strive to attract good
karma for the New Year. The frightening ogres of Namahage are
part of this enamoured tradition.
Chiaki Ishikawa, Expert Mask Maker

24. YAMADERA
Spirits in the Sky

25. While I thought about visiting the Tohoku
Region of Japan for several years, the thing
that pushed me into action was a photo book on
some of the temples. When I saw Yamadera, I
decided then and there that I had to visit on my
next trip.
We took an early morning local train from Aizu
Wakamatsu to Koriama, then a Shinkanzen
(Bullet train) to Yamagata and then a local train
to Yamadera. The journey took a little more
than three hours. When we arrived in the
Yamadera train station, the sky was overcast
but the leaves on the mountain (yama) were
brilliant reds and yellows and oranges, and the
temple (dera) was clearly visible.
Walking toward the mountain, we crossed the
red bridge over the Tachiyagawa River and
then started to see the signs in the shape of
monks pointing toward the entrance to the route
to Yamadera. It’s a very short walk from the
train station.
The first temple is up a short flight of stairs and
sets the tone with a large Buddha at the
entrance, with six children clamouring all over.
Nearby are clusters of Jizo statues—usually
associated with protection of travellers, as well
as caring for the spirits of deceased children
and easing the grief of families. Each Jizo (the
word means “earth treasury or earth womb) is
clothed in the traditional red bib, symbolizing
safety and protection.

26. And the tranquil, reflective mood of the temple is reflected by the presence of
a statue of Matsuo Basho, the famous Haiku poet who visited Yamadera in
1689:
deep silence -
the shrill of cicadas
seeps into rocks
After paying the admission (300 Yen per person) to enter the main temple
area you ascend the pathway and the 1000 stairs to the top of the mountain.
The leisurely walk takes in the tall trees, statues and rock shrines where
pilgrims have left coins in the crevices. A gateway leads to the main temple
and the lookout over the valley and the mountains. It’s quite breath taking.
We got our horoscopes from one of the shrines and then, in traditional
manner, we tied it to a frame so our hopes and wishes would be carried by the
wind and determined by the spirits in the sky.
We slowly walked down, getting a whole new perspective of the temple and the mountain. At the base we
saw one of the macaques (monkey). As it was lunch time, we found the recommended spot, Taki Fudo
Nama Soba and had some of the freshest tempura soba we had ever eaten. And then it was back to the
train station and eventually the town of Kaminoyamaonsen for the evening.
Considering that a photo of the Temple at Yamadera had inspired our entire nine day visit to Tohoku, it was
certainly a memorable visit and a sensory feast of colour, calm and reflection. Highly Recommended.
.
Matsuo Basho
Top Row: Modern Jizo Statues; Tall trees guard the pathway to the Temple; Protective statues in a shrine
Bottom Row: Yamadera Temple; Jizo with offerings; Steve about to commit his horoscope to the winds Next Page: Forest Jizo