About Weaving & Aari,
Weaving -the textile art in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads - called the warp and weft - are interlaced with each other at right angles to form a fabric or cloth.
Aari work - type of embroidery which is done on a stretched fabric and stitching the design with a long needle which has a hook in the end. Rest Learn Through PDF Friends!!
Easy Learning for People at last minute Study. Understand and study!! Hope This Documentary Is helpful to everyone!
1. Name : Janavi SV
Roll Number :20066031
Year : 3rd
Subject : Craft Cluster Documentary
Batch 2020-2024
2. TABLE OF CONTENTS
1.INTRODUCTION
• Geographical indication
• About Dakshinachitra
• About craft cluster
• Origin of the craft
2.PROCESS
• Raw materials
• Machinery
• Tools and techniques
3.MARKET
• Market research
• SWOT analysis
4.ARTISAN’S PROFILE
6.CONCLUSION
3. ABOUT DAKSHINA CHITRA
DakshinaChitra is an exciting cross cultural living museum of art,
architecture, lifestyles, crafts and performing arts of South India. The main
mission is to exhibit, promote and preserve aspects of the broader, more
inclusive cultures of the states and to bring these arts to the public in a
participative, enjoyable and engaging way. DakshinaChitra Heritage
Museum, a project of Madras Craft Foundation an NGO was opened to the
public on December 14th 1996. The Museum is located overlooking the Bay
of Bengal, at Muttu Kadu, 25 kilo meters south of Central Chennai, on the
East Coast Road to Mamallapuram, Tamil Nadu, India.
DakshinaChitra has a collection of 18 authentic historical houses with
contextual exhibitions in each house. All the houses bought and reconstructed
at DakshinaChitra had been given for demolition by their owners. The
authentic homes in a regional vernacular style are purchased, taken down,
transported and reconstructed by artisans of the regions from where the
houses came
INTRODUCTION
4.
5.
6. The development of spinning and weaving began in ancient Egypt around
3400 before Christ (B.C). The tool originally used for weaving was the
loom. From 2600 B.C. onwards, silk was spun and woven into silk in China.
Later in Roman times the European population was clothed in wool and
linen.
The process of combining warp and weft components to make a woven
structure. They run lengthwise, parallel to the warp yarns. The manner in
which the yarns are interlaced determines the type of weave. The yarn count
and number of warp and filling yarns to the square inch determine the
closeness or looseness of a weave. Woven fabrics may also be varied by the
proportion of warp yarns to filling yarns
In the plain weave each filling yarn passes over and under the warp yarns,
with the order reversed in alternating rows. Fabrics made in the plain
weave include percale, muslin, and taffeta. Ribbed effects in such fabrics as
faille and bengaline are produced by employing heavier yarns for either the
warp or the filling. In the basket weave one or more filling yarns are passed
alternately over and under two or more warp yarns, as seen in monk’s
cloth.
7.
8. SRI. KESAVAN OUR WEAVER
Born in 1949 to a family of weavers. Sh. Kesavan learned to handle the loom at
a very tender age, before he could even reach the pit of the loom His first
lesson in weaving was to throw the bobbins across the loom He wove his first
sari at the age of 13 which sold for 25 annas-1/4 of a Rupee(paisa) From then
on, his life revolved around the loom and now Sri Kesavan is a household name
in the weaving community for producing high quality exclusive silk sarees, with
innovative designs He never compromises on his workmanship and his skill is
referred to as kathi munai poll (knife like edge finish) passed on through
generations
The knowledge gamed from his ancestors helped him change the orientation of
the loom single handedly, making his contribution significant. Sri Kesavan also
served as the president of Kumbakonam Weavers Association fighting for
privileges and nights of the weavers of Tamil Nadu
9. As a weaver. Sri Kesavan is highly disappointed with the power loom replacing the
handloom industry Handloom industry cannot loom with cheap quality thread as in
power loom A single power loom replaces 10 traditional weavers which brings
huge profit to the owner at the cost of the livelihood of traditional weavers
Since 2005. Sri Kesavan and his wife have been working as in house weavers of
Pakshina Chitra, demonstrating the art of weaving to the vortons Sundari Silks a
popular saree outlet in the city has been he pation for many decades now.
10.
11. A loom provides you with the framework for your weave. It is threaded with warp
so that you can weave through different colours and types of ‘filling’, such as
yarn.
We struggled to find a small weaving loom that would make weaving simple for
everyone, so we designed our own with you in mind! Easy to construct and great
for beginners, our Pop-Up Loom gives you the space to make a woven piece up to
25cm x 25cm, enough to enable you to get to grips with weaving, but without the
giant commitment a bigger loom demands. It’s also very light weight so you can
weave comfortably on your lap and is small enough to store easily.
A LOOM
12. Warp is the thread which run up and down your loom. We have found that the
best fibre for warp thread is cotton; it's soft and pliable, yet sturdy and strong
with no stretch. The warp can be any colour you choose! As you practise, try
experimenting with different colours to see the interesting effects they can have.
We offer the option to adda 50g ball of white or black cotton warp with our
Pop-Up Loom.
2. WARP
13. Weft is the yarns, wools, roving, fabric scraps, ribbon etc that you use to weave
through the warp, left and right and right to left, to create your woven finish.
You can be as creative as you like with your weft; try ripping up old t-shirts or
jeans and experiment with different textures! Our Weaving Kits contain both
weft and warp, as well as a tapestry needle, and are the perfect place to start
your weaving journey.
3. WEFT
14. A shuttle is used to hold your working length of weft whilst you’re weaving
bigger sections (for smaller or detailed areas, you can also use a tapestry
needle). You can wrap plenty of weft around your shuttle using a Figure of
Eight method so that the weft sits on the sides of your shuttle enabling it to
easily fit through your warp threads.
4. SHUTTLES
15. Each time you complete a line of weaving, use a comb to push and beat
down your weft so that it fits snuggly against the previous line. This will
prevent you getting gaps in your weaving (unless you are intentionally
leaving a gap!). Our Pop-Up Loom comes with a comb and two shuttles,
so you are ready to go.
5. A COMB
16. Use a tapestry needle, which is straight with a large eye and blunt tip, to
weave your weft through your loom. The large eye of the needle allows
you to use a wide range of yarns with different ‘weight’ or thicknesses
and is perfect for smaller, more detailed sections of your weaving. Our
Weaving Kits also include a tapestry needle to get you started.
6. TAPESTRY NEEDLE
17. A shed stick is useful in several ways.
Firstly, a shed stick can be woven along the bottom of your loom before starting
a weaving to create a good foundation onto which you can push down your
weaving stitches. It also helps to keep the weaving nice and straight. A piece of
card is perfect for this purpose.
Secondly, a shed stick can be woven into the warp, turned on its side, and is
doing so, make space for your roving or yarn to easily be woven through the
Warp without getting tangled up.
7. SHED STICK (OR A SMOOTH-EDGED RULER,
PIECE OF CARD OR DOWEL)
18. Regular craft scissors are perfect for cutting yarn, roving or fabric and embroidery scissors are ideal for finer thread or detailed
areas.
8. PAIR OF SCISSORS
19.
20. Cotton comes from seed inside of a fruit covered with a husk-like
container called a boll. When the cotton is mature, the boll opens to
reveal soft, fluffy white filaments inside. The bolls are then harvested,
and the fibre is separated.
Cotton:
21. Jute is a natural fibre that is extracted from the bark of the jute vegetable plant.
A long, soft and shiny fibre that is one of the strongest fibres in the world, the
second most produced natural fibre after cotton.
Jute:
22.
23. Preparing the Warp Yarns for Weaving:
Before their use on the loom, warp and filling yarns must be prepared for weaving. In preparation for weaving, each warp end
(yarn) must be threaded through its own drop wire, heddle eye, and reed dent. The Drop wire is a device that will stop the loom if
an end should break, the heddle eye is the opening in a heddle that carries the yarn, and the reed comb-like device that will push
each filling yarn close against the completed fabric.
Placing the warp yarns on the loom is done either by drawing-in or by tying-in. Heddle wires are held in frames called harnesses.
The number of harnesses required for the loom is determined by the weave.
Preparing the Filling Yarns for Weaving:
Yarn that is to be used for filling must be packaged in some form that allows it to be unwound easily for transport through the shed
is called a shuttle and is made up of a wooden carrier into which a quill or pirn is placed
24. Basic Weaving Operation – 4 basic steps
Primary Motions
Once the filling yarns have been prepared and the warp beam containing the sized yarns is placed at the back of the loom. The
warp yarns are conveyed to a cylinder called the cloth beam which is in front.
The loom goes through a series of motions
Shedding: raising and lowering of warp yarns by means of the harness to form shed, opening between warp yarns through which
weft yarn passes
Picking: inserting of weft yarn by the shuttle through the shed
Beating up: packing the weft yarn into the cloth to make it compact
Taking up: winding newly formed cloth onto the cloth beam, Letting off: releasing yarn from a warp beam
25.
26. GLOBAL WEAVING MACHINERY MARKET - GROWTH, TRENDS, COVID-19 IMPACT AND FORECASTS (2022-2027)
The Global Spinning Machinery market is segmented by Machine Type (Shuttle Weaving Machine, Circular Weaving Machine,
Others), by Weaving Type (Plain Weave, Satin Weaving, Twill Weaving, Others), by Application (Clothing, Upholstery Fabric,
Automotive Textiles, Sportswear, Others) and by Geography (North America (United States, Mexico and Canada), Asia-Pacific
(China, Japan, India, Bangladesh, Turkey, South Korea, Australia, Indonesia and Rest of Asia), Europe (Germany, France, United
Kingdom, Italy, Spain, Russia and Rest of Europe), Middle East & Africa (Egypt, South Africa, Saudi Arabia and Rest of Middle
East & Africa) and South America (Brazil, Argentina, Rest of South America)). The report offers market size and forecasts for
Global Spinning Machinery market in value (USD billion) for all above segments.
27. Market Overview
The Global Weaving Machinery Market is expected to grow at a CAGR of 4.1% over the forecast period of 2022-2027.
The outbreak of COVID-19 has compelled government authorities to take stringent measures. Partial or complete lockdowns were
imposed in several emerging and developed countries to minimize the spread of the virus. The manufacturing was restricted to
permissible limits under the lockdown.
With the rising global population and resultant intake of Apparel based items, the weaving machine market growth is expected to
further ascend along subsequent periods. Additionally, the advent of technical fabrics requiring the need of woven items will incur
the usage of weaving machines. The packaging industry for industrial bags and sacs is expected to offer growth opportunities in
future for weaving machines owing to the variety of woven articles produced. On the hindsight, the emergence of non-woven items
may act as a deterrent to the growth of weaving machines market.
Weaving machine have widespread applications in clothing and textile manufacturing industries, for the fabrication and
processing of textiles, fabrics, and other woven materials. In some special cases weaving machine are also used for weaving of
metal wires in industrial applications.
On the back of rise in textile and clothing manufacturing across the globe weaving machine market is expected to witness
substantial growth during the forecast period. The manufacturers are also focusing on manufacturing of products with higher
efficiency and durability.
32. Embroidery refers to the thread craft that enhances the look of a fabric or product. This thread craft is generally done on natural
fabrics with tight weaves. Embroidery designs of India are influenced by different cultures and have a flavour of their own. Indian
embroidery is cherished by craftsmen and has the world swooning over them. Embroidery designs are formed on the basis of
texture of the fabric.
It may also include decorating materials other than threads, like pearls, beads, stones and sequins. India is known for its
beautiful embroidery techniques. Fundamental stitches of embroidery are running stitch, cross stitch and satin stitch. Surface
embroidery technique are more economical. Aari embroidery is one of the many forms of embroidery, originated in the Mughal
era. Aari work is a type of embroidery work that is done by stretching the fabric tightly over a wooden frame. A pen like needle,
that resembles a crochet needle is used to do the intrinsic Aari work.
Aari art work is popular for its fine and delicate thread work. Aari art work is popular for its fine and delicate thread work. Aari
work enhances the essence of hand embroidery. It is largely practiced in Ahmedabad. The kind of stitch that is used for Aari work
embroidery is chain stitch. Since Aari work has its origin from the Mughal era, motifs of Aari work are derived from nature. These
motifs include leaves, vines, flowers, trees, birds and animals. Embroideries used in ethnic fashion are distinguished from the Aari
embroidery because of these motifs. This type of embroidery has its place in contemporary fashion as well.
33.
34. MRS. KANCHANA
Age: 30 years
Sex: Female
Craft: Aari Embroidery, Baking.
Skill Level of the Artisian’s: Skilled
Teacher In: LOYOLA COLLEGE (Baking)
Contact No: 9940203590
Gmail: kkcreation0297@gmail.com
About Her:
Mrs. Kanchana is an Artisian, she teaches Baking in Loyola College. She teaches Aari class.
She has a contact with Dakshina Chitra (Lakshmi Mam) education Department . She has her own Boutique. She also teaches and
also taking orders jewelry, chocolate, baking products, ice cream, handmade soa.
(KK CREATION -DESTINY TO LEARN)
35.
36. The needle used for Aari work comes in only one size and they are available in local market. Colourful threads are used according
to the design and patterns. Other tools and materials used in this work are:
•Scissors used to cut the threads.
• Aari needle used to stitch the design patterns.
• Different types and colours of beads and stones are used to embellish the embroidered design.
• Fabric gum is used to fix the stones on fabric.
• Zari, gold or silver thread is used to stitch the design pattern.
• Various shades of embroidery thread are used to embroider the design.
• Bright check is a two part thread containing of a central core wire, with a coiled wire around it.
• Buillion or purl thread is also a type of wire wound into a tight coil that looks like a strand of gold pearls.
37.
38. The fabric is first stitched tightly over the wooden frame to remove uneven folds of the fabric. Using a thick cotton thread, the
fabric is sewn on to the wooden frame.
This does not spoil the grip of the fabric and let's you form intricate patterns over the fabric.
More often, Zari, cotton, and silk threads are used to make Aari work embroideries.
Fine patterns of embroidery are one of the main features of Aari work.
Generally, craftsmen and artisans embellish the Aari embroidery work with sequins, stones and other embellishments to enhance
the look of the embroidered patterns.
39.
40. Origin and History
Aari work traces out its emergence way back in the 12th century, which marked the rule of the Mughal emperors. Floral motifs,
traditional designs and fascinated the Mughal royals during that period. This popularized and brought Aari work into the
limelight. With time, places like Kutch, Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh, Rajasthan, and Delhi started recognizing the specialty of Aari
embroidery, which marked the gradual popularity of Aari embroidery.
Present Day Scenario
Aari work has always been considered one of the most tedious forms of needle work. Today, with the help of advanced stitching
procedures, and the role of more artisans, it takes lesser time to complete the embroidery work on an outfit.
Sources of Inspiration
Aari work began with a simple procedure of using a lead pencil to sketch the design on the fabric, after which a needle was put to
use which pierced holes along the lines of the design. Then the threaded needle was inserted into the fabric, and when it came up, it
emerged with a loop. Through this procedure, the fine stitched pattens led to the evolution of Aari work as an individual art form.
Faces behind the Fabric
Aari work was initially executed by the Muslim communities residing in India. They mainly used a hooked needle, or the Aari. Aari
work is also said to have parts of its original essence in Barabanki, which named it as Katla work as this artwork was executed on
a frame which was based on the ideologies of a cot. Mochi embroiderers done by artisans in regions of Kutch also formed the
original faces behind this fabric, as they used the ‘Aari’ needle to redefine the essence of traditional beauty.
41. Varieties
Aari work involves the implementation of a galore of beads and needles. Salma, Gota, Nakshi, Dabka and Aara are some the
varieties linked to this artwork, which plays an equal role in enhancing the beauty of the fabric. Aari work is generally associated
to floral motifs as well. Even Katori, sitara and tikena are some of the other elements that are used in this embroidery form. All of
them help in creating more intrinsic and innovative designs.
Occasion Dressing
As Aari work can now be seen in many types of garments, occasions like parties, religious ceremonies, weddings, and other formal
occasions are perfect for donning dresses embellished with fine Aari embroidery. Apart from these occasions, this fabric can even
be worn in all seasons, irrespective of any time of the year.
Maintenance
Dry cleaning washes are initially recommended for this fabric. Besides, soft ironing and gentle hand wash are suggested to retain
the newness of the fabric.
Global Appeal
Crediting its ‘all seasonal’ convenience, this fabric has increased the demand meter across the globe. Even western countries are
attracted to this fabric which has made it a global outfit suiting every occasion.
42. Accessorizing
Traditional and ethnic jewelry are the best preferences for this fabric. Keeping in mind its cultural essence, Indian jewelry can be
considered the ideal accessory to go with it.
Chronicles of the Future foretold
With the rising popularity of Aari work fabrics, international markets are winning more sales escalating the sales in India. Even
the interiors and remote places of India and abroad, have noticed the magical worth of this fabric.
43.
44. • High Barriers to Entry
• Highly Experienced Owner-Operator
•
Limited Competition in the New York
Area
• Very high gross margins
• Ability to sell products online
• Highly visible website
• Limited start up risk
•
Competitors can offer similar products
quickly
• Limited flexbility in pricing
• Limited startup costs
• High transporation costs
Strengths Weakness
45. • Continued expansion for online
• Ability to develop additional stores
• Acquisition of additional rounds of capital
• Affiliate relations with related vendors
• Development of proprietary products
•
Development of wholesale distribution
relationship
• Sale of the business for a significant P/E
•
Changes in regulations can impact the
business
•
Products are already solc by major
competitors
•
Insurance costs are continually
increasing
•
Increases in price inputs can cause
upward pricing
Opportunities Threats
46.
47. As a majority of the population of the world is present online on social media, we felt using the social media platform like
Instagram, Facebook may help spreading the word about the craft and the products.
48.
49. I choose my Craft Cluster as Weaving and Aari Embroidery learnt in Dakshina Chitra
2weeks for Weaving ,2weeks for Aari Embroidery. Mentors are very helpful and polite. Had good understanding with the mentors.
Staffs in Dakshina Chitra are very helpful. Had wonderful days.
PRODUCTS MADE:
WEAVING AND AARI EMBROIDERY