Shaphee Lanphee is a traditional textile fabric woven and embroidered, usually as a shawl, with embroidered motifs with cotton threads generally by Meitei women of Manipur. The fabric was, in the past, presented as a gift of honour (Mana Phee) to the soldiers for their bravery in a successful war, and to the praise-worthy chiefs of the Nagas of Manipur by the king of Manipur. It is a product which is protected under the GI registration and is now made throughout the Indian state of Manipur.[1][2] Contents 1 Geographical indication 2 History 3 Details of product 4 References Geographical indication The fabric has been registered for protection under the Geographical indication of the Trade Related Aspects of Intellectual Property Rights (TRIPS) agreement. It was registered as "Shaphee Lanphee" under the Geographical Indications Act 1999 of the Government of India, with registration confirmed by the Controller General of Patents Designs and Trademarks under Class – 25 – Clothing vide application number 371 dated 19 December 2011,[1][2] and also for Wangkhei Phee (GI no.372) and Moirang Phee (GI no.373). The Government of Manipur was expected to register 1,000 weavers in respect of manufacturing Shaphee Lanphee within six months from the date of registration as per decision of the Consultative Committee meeting.[1][3] History The literal meaning of the fabric 'Shaphee' is "the fabric of animal and war".[2] It is exclusivity a product of Khoisnam lineage. It is said that the king saw a man of Khoisnam clan wearing this Shaphee Lanphee and riding a horse. The king then adopted it as a form of honouring brave Naga Chiefs of Manipur. According to manuscript titled Loiyumba Silyen, King Loiyumba (1074–1122 AD) authorised this product to be woven by the Khoisnam family.[2] The product was revived in the 20th century with the efforts of Maisnam Nalini Devi, a weaver from Wangkhei Yonglan, her sister Maisnam Anita and their mother Keinahanbi who had both won the state award in 1992 for promoting this product. Nalini also won the Master Crafts Person award in 2009 for promoting this craft.[1] Details of product Shaphee Lamphee embroidery is done over a black coloured cloth with red border. The motifs embroidered on the fabric consists of several designs, and some of the common designs adopted are: of animals such as "shamu" (elephant), "shagol" (horse), "iroichi" (buffalo horn), "wahong" (peacock), and "Nga" (fish); planets such as "numit" (sun), tha (moon); Thawanmichak (star) ; and also phantup (magical seat, ta (spear) – these designs are done in a set pattern and sequence of operation. The embroidery is done by hand using needle and yarns of cotton. It has a width of 110–132 cm and length of 225–230 cm and generally weighs 1854 grams. The yarn used are 2/20S cotton and 2/34S acrylic with wrap made with 2/20S cotton and weft woven from 2/20S cotton. The yarn used in embroidery is 2/20S cotton, mercerized and 2/40S.[2] The fabric is revered for its re

1. D’source
Digital Learning Environment for Design - www.dsource.in
1
Source:
http://www.dsource.in/resource/pichhaura-almora
Design Resource
Pichhaura - Almora
Traditional Ceremonial Wear
by
Prof. Bibhudutta Baral
NID Campus, Bengaluru
1. Introduction
2. Location Map
3. Tools and Raw Materials
4. Making Process
5. Products
6. Contact Details

2. D’source
Digital Learning Environment for Design - www.dsource.in
2
Introduction
Pichhaura is a garment worn at ceremonial occasions in Uttarakhand. From bride to great grandmother, every
women in the family wear it on auspicious occasions be it namkarna (naming ceremony), marriage, upanayan (a
ritual done during wedding). It has a special significance and is mandatory for all married women in the family or
close relation.
The traditional Pichhaura is hand printed with traditional motifs with red color over yellow background. Pichhau-
ra is worn by women during the preparations they made for Aipan folk painting.
The Place:
Almora is a district in the Kumaun division of Uttarakhand in India, which is known for its cultural heritage, handi-
crafts, cuisine and wildlife.
This traditionally designed shawl is specially made for the bride.
Source:
http://www.dsource.in/resource/pichhaura-almora/
introduction
Design Resource
Pichhaura - Almora
Traditional Ceremonial Wear
by
Prof. Bibhudutta Baral
NID Campus, Bengaluru
1. Introduction
2. Location Map
3. Tools and Raw Materials
4. Making Process
5. Products
6. Contact Details

3. D’source
Digital Learning Environment for Design - www.dsource.in
3
This is shawl is designed by women artisan by hand.
Source:
http://www.dsource.in/resource/pichhaura-almora/
introduction
Design Resource
Pichhaura - Almora
Traditional Ceremonial Wear
by
Prof. Bibhudutta Baral
NID Campus, Bengaluru
1. Introduction
2. Location Map
3. Tools and Raw Materials
4. Making Process
5. Products
6. Contact Details

4. D’source
Digital Learning Environment for Design - www.dsource.in
4
Artisans make the craft in their home premises.
Source:
http://www.dsource.in/resource/pichhaura-almora/
introduction
Design Resource
Pichhaura - Almora
Traditional Ceremonial Wear
by
Prof. Bibhudutta Baral
NID Campus, Bengaluru
1. Introduction
2. Location Map
3. Tools and Raw Materials
4. Making Process
5. Products
6. Contact Details

5. D’source
Digital Learning Environment for Design - www.dsource.in
5
Location Map
Source:
http://www.dsource.in/resource/pichhaura-almora/
location-map
Design Resource
Pichhaura - Almora
Traditional Ceremonial Wear
by
Prof. Bibhudutta Baral
NID Campus, Bengaluru
1. Introduction
2. Location Map
3. Tools and Raw Materials
4. Making Process
5. Products
6. Contact Details

6. D’source
Digital Learning Environment for Design - www.dsource.in
6
Tools and Raw Materials
The tools and raw materials used are purchased from local market. The cloth is bought from Delhi. The usage of
materials is very less in this craft making process. The craft is made at home premises only. The artisans involved
to make this craft are only women.
• Chicken Karahi cloth: Fabric on which the design is made.
• Gram: Chana using which the dots design is made on the cloth.
• Coin: 50 paise coin is used to draw the line patterns on the cloth.
• Color: The color used in dying the cloth is bought from Delhi.
Source:
http://www.dsource.in/resource/pichhaura-almora/
tools-and-raw-materials
Design Resource
Pichhaura - Almora
Traditional Ceremonial Wear
by
Prof. Bibhudutta Baral
NID Campus, Bengaluru
1. Introduction
2. Location Map
3. Tools and Raw Materials
4. Making Process
5. Products
6. Contact Details

7. D’source
Digital Learning Environment for Design - www.dsource.in
7
The design is made using red color. Golden color lace is stitched at the border of the shawl
for decoration.
Yellow color is used to dye the cloth.
Source:
http://www.dsource.in/resource/pichhaura-almora/
tools-and-raw-materials
Design Resource
Pichhaura - Almora
Traditional Ceremonial Wear
by
Prof. Bibhudutta Baral
NID Campus, Bengaluru
1. Introduction
2. Location Map
3. Tools and Raw Materials
4. Making Process
5. Products
6. Contact Details

8. D’source
Digital Learning Environment for Design - www.dsource.in
8
Making Process
Pichhaura is made on a white color fabric called “Chicken karahi” purchased from Delhi, which is of two fifty me-
ters long. The Pichhaura design is made on different type of clothes as well, which is decided by customer.
Earlier, dye colors were purchased from Delhi but currently colors are available in local market also. Yellow and
red are only the two colors used to design the fabric. The red and yellow color together symbolizes enduring
conjugal life, health and prosperity.
Yellow color powder is mixed with water. Locally available adhesive is mixed in the solution, so the color sticks to
the fabric strongly. The cloth is dipped and soaked in the solution for five minutes. The designs are made while
the cloth is still wet, as the color will spread if the cloth is dry.
The design is made using red color solution. 50 paisa coin and gram is tied in a piece of cloth, which is dipped in
the red color solution and then design is made on the cloth. Line patterns are made using 50 paisa coins and dot
patterns are made using gram (grain type). The design made in the middle of the cloth is called as ‘Surya chandra
Codi’. The design consists of Surya (Sun God), Chandra (Moon), Ghanti (bell), and shankh (shell) which is consid-
ered auspices. Dotted design is covered on the remaining area of the cloth. After the design is made, the cloth
is dried in the sun. Once it is dried, golden or silver color lace locally known as ‘kiran’ is stitched all around in the
periphery is stitched.
Adhesive is mixed in the solution, to make the color
stick strongly to the fabric.
Yellow color dye solution is prepared to dye the cloth.
Source:
http://www.dsource.in/resource/pichhaura-almora/
making-process
Design Resource
Pichhaura - Almora
Traditional Ceremonial Wear
by
Prof. Bibhudutta Baral
NID Campus, Bengaluru
1. Introduction
2. Location Map
3. Tools and Raw Materials
4. Making Process
5. Products
6. Contact Details

9. D’source
Digital Learning Environment for Design - www.dsource.in
9
Artisan immerses the cloth in the dye solution. The fabric is soaked in the dye solution for five minutes.
Source:
http://www.dsource.in/resource/pichhaura-almora/
making-process
Design Resource
Pichhaura - Almora
Traditional Ceremonial Wear
by
Prof. Bibhudutta Baral
NID Campus, Bengaluru
1. Introduction
2. Location Map
3. Tools and Raw Materials
4. Making Process
5. Products
6. Contact Details

10. D’source
Digital Learning Environment for Design - www.dsource.in
10
Artisan strains/remove out the water from the cloth. Red color solution is made and filtered, which is used to
make design on the cloth.
Source:
http://www.dsource.in/resource/pichhaura-almora/
making-process
Design Resource
Pichhaura - Almora
Traditional Ceremonial Wear
by
Prof. Bibhudutta Baral
NID Campus, Bengaluru
1. Introduction
2. Location Map
3. Tools and Raw Materials
4. Making Process
5. Products
6. Contact Details

11. D’source
Digital Learning Environment for Design - www.dsource.in
11
Surya Chandra codi design is drawn in the center of the
shawl.
Dot design is made using a gram tied in cloth, dipped in
the red color.
Line patterns are drawn using 50 paise coin tied in
cloth and dipped in the red color.
The design is made on the cloth while it is still wet.
Source:
http://www.dsource.in/resource/pichhaura-almora/
making-process
Design Resource
Pichhaura - Almora
Traditional Ceremonial Wear
by
Prof. Bibhudutta Baral
NID Campus, Bengaluru
1. Introduction
2. Location Map
3. Tools and Raw Materials
4. Making Process
5. Products
6. Contact Details

12. D’source
Digital Learning Environment for Design - www.dsource.in
12
The left remaining area is covered with design of dot
patterns.
The shawl is decorated by stitching golden lace on the
borders.
Once designed the cloth is dried in the sun.
Source:
http://www.dsource.in/resource/pichhaura-almora/
making-process
Design Resource
Pichhaura - Almora
Traditional Ceremonial Wear
by
Prof. Bibhudutta Baral
NID Campus, Bengaluru
1. Introduction
2. Location Map
3. Tools and Raw Materials
4. Making Process
5. Products
6. Contact Details

13. D’source
Digital Learning Environment for Design - www.dsource.in
13
Source:
http://www.dsource.in/resource/pichhaura-almora/
making-process
Design Resource
Pichhaura - Almora
Traditional Ceremonial Wear
by
Prof. Bibhudutta Baral
NID Campus, Bengaluru
1. Introduction
2. Location Map
3. Tools and Raw Materials
4. Making Process
5. Products
6. Contact Details

14. D’source
Digital Learning Environment for Design - www.dsource.in
14
Products
Only traditional shawl is made. This product is worn by women on all auspicious occasions. This shawl is made
only by women artisans traditionally at home on Chicken Karahi cloth. With the changing trend this shawl is
made by men and sold in shops as well. It is also block printed on fabric material as per demand by customers.
This shawl is worn by women on all auspicious
occasions.
This craft is designed by women artisans by hand from
traditions.
Source:
http://www.dsource.in/resource/pichhaura-almora/
products
Design Resource
Pichhaura - Almora
Traditional Ceremonial Wear
by
Prof. Bibhudutta Baral
NID Campus, Bengaluru
1. Introduction
2. Location Map
3. Tools and Raw Materials
4. Making Process
5. Products
6. Contact Details

15. D’source
Digital Learning Environment for Design - www.dsource.in
15
Essentially this shawl is designed for the bride to wear
on her wedding.
Source:
http://www.dsource.in/resource/pichhaura-almora/
products
Design Resource
Pichhaura - Almora
Traditional Ceremonial Wear
by
Prof. Bibhudutta Baral
NID Campus, Bengaluru
1. Introduction
2. Location Map
3. Tools and Raw Materials
4. Making Process
5. Products
6. Contact Details

16. D’source
Digital Learning Environment for Design - www.dsource.in
16
Contact Details
This documentation was done by Prof. Bibhudutta Baral at
NID Campus, Bengaluru.
You can get in touch with
• Prof. Bibhudutta Baral at bibhudutta[at]nid.edu
You could write to the following address regarding
suggestions and clarifications:
Helpdesk Details:
Co-ordinator
Project e-kalpa
R & D Campus
National Institute of Design
#12 HMT Link Road, Off Tumkur Road
Bengaluru 560 022
India
Phone: +91 80 2357 9054
Fax: +91 80 23373086
Email: dsource.in[at]gmail.com
Source:
http://www.dsource.in/resource/pichhaura-almora/
contact-details
Design Resource
Pichhaura - Almora
Traditional Ceremonial Wear
by
Prof. Bibhudutta Baral
NID Campus, Bengaluru
1. Introduction
2. Location Map
3. Tools and Raw Materials
4. Making Process
5. Products
6. Contact Details