Mezcal class material

1. INTRODUCTIONTO
MEZCAL

2. Outline
■ Definition of Mezcal
■ Mezcal vsTequila
■ Geography of Mezcal
■ History of Mezcal
■ Tasting Mezcal
■ Making Mezcal
Outline

3. Definition(s) of Mezcal
■ Cultural Definition:Any distillate made from the
agave plant
– Historically made in 24 of the 31 States of Mexico
■ Legal Definition: must be 36-55%ABV (72-110
proof), certified and bottled in Mexico according to
the Denomination of Origin in one of twelve states:
■ The geography of mezcal changes regularly so this
is a highly elastic and recent definition.

4. Mezcal vs.Tequila
■ Both come from the agave plant, and both
are indigenous liquors to Mexico.
– Tequila is simply the legal name for one
type of mezcal.
■ Tequila is usually steamed in ovens
instead of roasted underground (hence
the smoke characteristic of mezcal)
■ Geography:Tequila can only be made in
states of Jalisco,Guanajuato,Tamaulipas,
Nayarit, and Michoacán.
TEQUILA PRODUCTION MEZCAL (THE SPIRIT)
PRODUCTION
AGAVE SOURCE BLUE WEBER AGAVE UP TO 30 DIFFERENT
VARIETALS, BUT
MOSTLY ESPADIN,
TOBALA, TOABAZICHE,
TEPEZTATE, AND
ARROQUENO
COOKING PROCESS TYPICALLY STEAM-
COOKED INSIDE OVENS
TYPICALLY COOKED
INSIDE EARTHEN PITS
LINED WITH LAVA ROCK
AND FILLED WITH WOOD
AND CHARCOAL
FERMENTATION TYPICAL YEAST
FERMENTATION. IT CAN
BE WILD OF CULTIVATED
YEASTS.
TYPICAL YEAST
FERMENTATION. IT CAN
BE WILD OF CULTIVATED
YEASTS.
DISTILLATION 2-3 TIMES POT DISTILLED
IN CLAY, BRICK,
STAINLESS STEEL
2-3 TIMES POT DISTILLED
IN VARIOUS VESSEL
TYPES
AGING CATEGORIES BLANCO JOVEN
REPOSADO (2 MONTHS –
ONE YEAR IN OAK)
REPOSADO (2 MONTHS –
ONE YEAR IN OAK)
ANEJO (1-3 YEARS) ANEJO (1-3 YEARS)
EXTRA ANEJO (3+YEARS)
STYLE CATEGORIES MIXTO (AT LEAST 51%
AGAVE SUGARS USED IN
DISTILLATION)
MIXTO (AT LEAST 80%
AGAVE SUGARS USED IN
DISTILLATION)
THERE IS A LOT OF
DIVERSITY IN THIS
CATEGORY. IT’S
COMMON TO SEE
SINGLE VILLAGE
VARIETALS AS WELL AS
OTHER CLASSIFICATIONS
BASED ON THE
”MAGUEY” USED.

6. Geography of Mezcal
■ In 1994, the Mexican gov. created the first
round of geographic restrictions
■ Mezcal is produced in nine of the 31
Mexican states:
– Oaxaca,Guerrero, Durango, San Luis Potosi,
Zacatecas,Tamaulipas, Michoacan,
Guanajuato and Puebla.
– Most mezcal on the market in the United
States comes from Oaxaca.

7. MEZCAL

8. Brief History of Mezcal
■ Mezcal comes from the Nahuatl
words metl and ixcalli, which together mean “oven
cooked agave.”
■ 400 years ago, when the Spanish conquerors arrived
in Mexico, they taught distillation techniques to the
native inhabitants and the first distilled spirit in the
Americas was born: mezcal
■ Production largely centered in remote villages – very
artisanal and ancestral (Janzen 2017, 26)
– “Found the good stuff by word of mouth (Ibid).”
– Reputation of poor man’s drink (Ibid, 30)

9. Brief History of Mezcal
■ Ron Cooper helped change general
perception and brought mezcal to the U.S.
– Created Del Maguey
– Officially imported in 1995
■ First legally imported to the United States
in 1975; now more than 75% of tequila &
mezcal exports come to the U.S.

10. RisingTide of Mezcal
■ By mid 2000s,Cooper had recruited chefs
and bartenders as mezcal fans
– 2008-2009, we see brands like Sombra,
Fidencio, Los Amantes, and Ilegal
– PhilWard left Death & Co. to open Mayahuel
in NYC with restaurateur Ravi DeRossi
(2009-2017)
■ Over past decade, mezcal sales and
number of mezcal-focused bars have
increased
– From 2005 to 2015, mezcal sales in the U.S.
increased by almost 300 percent (Japhe
2017)
Maximize Market Research (2019)
Mezcalería Tobalá, Austin, TX
Distillery Trail (2019)

11. The Rise of Mezcal and Sustainability
■ Today, the United States is the second largest market for mezcal
outside of Mexico, according to MarketWatch Magazine (2018).
■ The agave used to make mezcal could easily fall victim to
unbridled demand, leading to over-harvesting and inflated prices
that threaten the traditional supply chain (Mancall-Bitel 2019).
– Over-harvesting is eradicating wild agave populations, creating
agave deserts (Japhe 2017; Jonny 2017).
■ Cloning - practice creates hundreds (and thousands) of genetically
identical agave plants over several generations.
– Susceptible to disease and other environmental factors

12. Talking andTasting Mezcal

13. Talking Mezcal
■ Start with the Basics
– Who,Where,What (producer/mezcalero, origin, varietal)
■ Possibly Note Production
– Type of Still (Clay/Copper/Wood); Aging; Pechugas
■ Taste — Stay General!
– Light/Intense, Fruity/Floral,Vegetal/Mineral, Complexity
■ Side-by-side tastings (comparing region, agave variety, mezcalero, distillation
methods)

14. Reading the Label
■ Mezcals (including tequila) have NOM identifiers on their
labels, but recent legislation has both added helpful
information and made it more confusing for consumers.
– Also can use recently-added QR codes on many labels
■ The NOM number is a unique, government regulated
distillery number. Many distilleries produce more than one
brand of tequila, and some brands are exported, and some
are only available in Mexico.Those products containing
the same NOM # are produced from the same distillery.
■ Denomination of Origin (DOM) – came from wine industry
– Mezcal received its own DOM – NOM-070-SCFI-1994 in
1994.
– COMERCAM (CRM) – governing body over mezcal

15. Tasting Mezcal
■ When it comes time to taste mezcal, most
experts agree that the best way to really get to
know the beverage is to sip it neat, at room
temperature, and from a widemouthed vessel
(the way mezcaleros drink it).
■ Kiss the mezcal. Do not shoot it.
– Suggestion: Ease in. “The very first sip, you have to
squeese your tongue up into the roof of your mouth
and teeth and swallow slowly. After that first
intense sip, wait 30 seconds and your palate is
tuned up and you can sip normally.The second sip
will be sweeter and softer.” –Ron Cooper
■ The cheer for mezcal is ”Stigibeu (stee-
gee-BAY-oo),” meaning “To your health.”
Janzen 2017, 113
Del Magauey’s terra cotta copitas for sipping.

16. Tasting Mezcal (The CalaWay)
■ Rub a drop of mezcal between your hands. As it evaporates you will
be able to smell the aroma of cooked maguey.
■ Smell the mezcal before drinking it.You will find the aroma you
sensed when rubbing it between your hands. Different aromas will
soon become apparent. Keep your mouth closed as you initially
breathe in the scent, and then open it to fully recognize the aroma.
■ Take a small sip, rinsing your mouth with the mezcal for ten
seconds, exhaling its vapors through your nose. Swallow the first sip
and focus on the flavors coming to life on your palate.
■ Take another sip and savor it for ten seconds before swallowing.
Nasaw. 2019. Agave Spirits.Cala Restaurant.

17. MezcalTasting Notes
■ Body
– Viscosity/Mouthfeel
– Sweetness, Acidity, Bitterness/Tannin
– Alcohol ByVolume (ABV)
■ Flavor
– Aroma (Smell) vs. Palate (Taste)
– Fruity, Floral,Vegetal/Herbaceous, Mineral
■ Finish (complexity)

18. Specific Flavors
■ FROMTHEAGAVE/HARVEST: Mint,
basil, asparagus, lime, lemon,
grapefruit, anise, grass, bitter
orange peel, white flowers, vanilla
■ FROMTHE ROAST: Honey, toffee,
pumpkin, squash, sweet potato,
smoke, caramel, walnut, peanut,
almond, hazelnut, brown sugar,
coffee, chili pepper, ash, charcoal,
pepper, chocolate, wood, fire

19. Worm Salts and Oranges
■ Fruit
– Typically orange
– Can also use grapefruit, tomato, mango, coconut
– Lemon and lime are too acidic
■ Sal de gusano (worm salt)
– Dried, toasted, ground worms mixed with salt &
dried chili pepper
■ Sprinkle salt on orange slice.Worm’s intense
agave taste compliments mezcal.

20. Making Mezcal

21. What Differentiates Mezcals?
“Diversity comes from everywhere (Janzen 2017,
20).”
■ Terroir (think Burgundy!)
– Refers to the way the environmental factors impact
characteristics and flavors of the final beverage
(soil, water, elevation, climate, ecosystem)
■ Time (intergenerational, 6-35 years!)
■ Tools (clay pots, no electricity, five senses)
■ Agave (vs. fruit, grain, or sugarcane)
■ Wood (heat, smoke, construction)

22. Agave
■ Agave = Latin word derived from Ancient Greek
agaunos (noble, or splendid)
■ Maguey = from indigenousTaino people’s
language – Spaniard’s spread the use of this word
throughout Mexico instead of metl (Nahuatl word)
■ A succulent of the asparagae family; biologically
more similar to garlic, onions, or asparagus than it
is to cacti (which it more closely resembles)
■ Some 200 recognized species globally
– Only around 20 species are commonly used for
mezcal production
– Another 10-20 used less commonly
– Other species are too fibrous and don’t have enough
sugar to make mezcal
Blue agave

23. Agave Species

24. Espadín (A. ANGUSTIFOLIA)
■ The genetic parent of agave tequilana
■ By far the most produced and consumed variety of
agave – Up to 90% of mezcal production
■ “Friendliest introduction to mezcal” (Janzen 2017, 17)
■ The grandfather to blue agave (which is why mezcals
made from it might taste familiar to seasoned
tequila drinkers) and one of the hardiest species of
succulent.
■ High sugar content; fruitier and more floral.

25. Tobalá (A. POTATORUM)
■ A rare species called “the king of agaves”
– it was the first wild agave to become popular in the export
market so it was severely overharvested; some producers now
growing a semi-wild version
■ Only grows in rocky soils at high altitudes under the shade of
trees
■ Very small size, low yield (2 bottles of mezcal per piña);
usually 12-15 years to mature
■ Intensely aromatic, woody, sometimes fruity, sweet enduring
finish; very different taste depending on altitude

26. Cuixe (A. KARWINSKII)
■ (Pronounced ”cuishe”)
■ Grows upright with a trunk like a tree; only
found in Oaxaca; has many subvarieties and
often grows together in the wild like a little
family
■ Needs more time between roasting and
fermentation to break down fibers
■ Due to their dense core and lower water
content, flavor profile is usually high in
minerality, dry, earthy, woody, vegetal &
floral

27. Tepeztate (A. MARMORATA)
■ Wild, rare species that can grow very large
■ One of the longest to mature (often 20-35
years)
■ Prefers steep grades in rocky soil;
■ Very perfumed and intensely vegetal,
green, herbal, earthy

28. Cupreata (A. CUPREATA)
■ Smaller plant but still has higher sugar density;
usually 5-12 years to mature
■ Only reproduces from seed, but some people
are working on a semi-cultivated version
■ Generally lighter-bodied, bright, floral, slightly
sweet, sometimes with a piney, resinous finish

29. Tobaziche
■ Tobaziche is a member of the Karwinskii family, the
“upright agaves,” with 12-15 years to mature
– closely related to Madrecuixe.
■ Can look and taste very different depending on where
it’s grown.
■ Most often harvested wild and can make for a
herbaceous, savory mezcal.

30. Arroqueño (A. AMERICANA)
■ Now rare species of enormous size with longer
ripening period (often 10-25 years)
– Eighty years ago it was the most planted agave in
Oaxaca (until they discovered espadin)
■ Produces floral, green mezcals, which sometimes
finish on a spicy or bitter chocolate note.
■ Concentrated sugars make it high proof, rich & full
bodied but still balanced

31. Mexicano (A. RHODACANTHA)
■ Very large genetic relative of espadin; can
take a bit longer to mature (7-12 years)
■ Still has the roundness, richness, some
sweetness of espadin but with more
complexity, often higher alcohol; floral,
honey-like quality
■ There are other agaves: Cenizo, Jabali,A.
Salmiana,A. Inaequidens,A. Maximiliana,A.
Tequilana, etc.

32. Producing Mezcal

33. Growing and Harvesting Mezcal
■ Historically, mezcal was sourced from the wild
– A variety of ripe wild species would be harvested and blended to make an ensamble.
– Movement towards single-varietal expressions
■ The key to good mezcal is to only harvest agaves that have reached full maturity
■ Harvesting consists of hacking away leaves or pencas, leaving only the heart or pina.

34. Roasting Mezcal
■ Once harvested, agave plants must be cooked to soften the fibers and transform starches into
sugars that can be easily fermented.
■ Pina is cooked in a stone or clay masonry oven (common in Jalisco, San Luis Potosi, Zacatecas) or
in a deep, conical pit carved out of the earth (common in Oaxaca and Guerrero)

35. Roasting (or Steaming) Mezcal
■ Some use steam instead of roasting to
explore the pure flavors of mezcal
without the interference of smoke
(Janzen 2017, 80).
■ Regardless of process, the smoke
element of mezcal should not be
overpowering.
– Too much smoke can be a defect in
production or intentional over-roasting
(Janzen 2017, 85)

36. Crushing Mezcal
■ After cooked, maestros check each pina to make sure they are not overcooked or
molded while sitting in the sun
■ Pinas are then pulverized to extract the sticky sugars and juices
– Process completed by hand with an axe or mallet, donkey/mules, or mechanical
shredders or tills.

37. Fermenting Mezcal
■ After the fibers are broken down, they and the juices are shoveled into fermentation
vessels and water is added.
■ The batch is left alone for the wild yeasts to do their thing.
■ Vessel type plays a role in what types of yeasts and bacteria work and how the
temperature fluctuates within, changing the flavors and aromas of the liquid.
■ Vessels vary from wooden vats, underground pits, stainless steel, ceramic rawhide.

38. Fermenting Mezcal

39. Distilling Mezcal
■ Distillation – process by which liquid – and in mezcal’s case, sometimes fibers – are heated in
a still so the liquid evaporates into vapor and then condenses back into fluid again (Janzen
2017, 97).
■ Vessel size, shape, and material of vessel play an important role and vary.
– Copper pots are most popular at established facilities since they are efficient and have neutral
effect on flavor.
– Minero or clay pots are more expensive and difficult – material absorbs, breaks easily, but
does influence flavor

40. Distilling Mezcal
■ By law, mezcal must be distilled at least twice to an alcohol level between 36-55%
– Companies like Montelobos and Ilegal import at a lower 40% to make more palpable for
Americans (Janzen 2017, 100).
■ Once the maestro has made the appropriate cuts and created the preferred balance,
the liquid is bottled and readied for distribution.

41. Aging Mezcal
■ Joven: Entirely unaged or aged for less than
two months.
– 95% of mezcal is released joven
– Reason: spirit is expressive and interesting
when it’s au naturel
■ Reposado: Aged in oak barrels for two to
twelve months.
■ Anejo:Aged for one to three years.

42. MEZCAL STYLES

43. Pechuga
■ Produced in small batches
■ Distilled with local grains, nuts, fruits and meat,
which is hung above the liquid in the still.The
vapors steam the meat, which, in turn, imparts a
full-bodied flavor to the mezcal
– Usually involves dry, raw meat (chicken, turkey,
venison, rabbit or iguana) hung inside the top of
the still so the vapor passes through it; the fat and
juices drip down into the distillation; often includes
other fruits, herbs, nuts and spices (banana, apple,
plum, orange, almonds, rice, cinnamon, anise)
■ Historically, only for rituals or special occasions
like baptisms, weddings and quinceañeras
(Janzen 2017, 110)

44. Recommending/Creating Flights

45. Creating a Flight
■ Flights are a cost-effective way to easily
compare and contrast brands
■ Below are ways to organize flights:
– By variety - organize a few samples from same
species (espadin is a good starter)
– By terroir – choose samples from different parts
of Oaxaca
– By region – differences in soil, terroir, methods
– By mezcalero – same label, different mezcaleros

46. References
■ Bullock,Tom. 2017.The Mezcal Experience:
A Field Guide to theWorld’s Best Mezcals
andAgave Spirits. London:Quarto
Publishing Group.
■ Cooper, Ron. 2018. Finding Mezcal:A
Journey into the Liquid Soul of Mexico.
NewYork:Ten Speed Press.
■ Janzen, Emma. 2017. Mezcal:The History,
Craft, and Cocktails of theWorld’s Ultimate
Artisanal Spirit. Minneapolis, MN:Voyageur
Press.
■ Schroeder, James. 2018. Understanding
Mezcal. Prensa Press.