Muslin a brand name of pre-colonial Bengal textile, especially of Dhaka origins. Muslin was manufactured in the city of Dhaka and in some surrounding stations, by local skill with locally produced cotton and attained world-wide fame as the Dhaka Muslin.
After 170 years, researchers and scientists have been able to give rebirth to the precious Dhaka Muslin fabric. Muslin – considered one of the great treasures of the age– has not only been a type of fabric for the Bengali people but also a part of the rich heritage that was long lost in the hand of British exploitation.
2. Interpretation of Muslin.
Muslin a brand name of pre-colonial Bengal textile, especially
of Dhaka origins. Muslin was manufactured in the city of Dhaka
and in some surrounding stations, by local skill with locally
produced cotton and attained world-wide fame as the Dhaka
Muslin
Muslin, the finer handloom-based woven cotton fabric a plain
weave structure that dawned in Dhaka, the capital of
Bangladesh, is resurrecting. The fabric, developed from a
variant of the cotton plant name Phuti carpus grown only in the
area around of Dhaka, has a far-reaching history stretching back
thousands of years
Figure: Muslin fabric passing through
a hand ring.
3. Ancient background of Muslin.
• In 1298 CE, Marco Polo described the cloth in his book The Travels.
He said it was made in Mosul, Iraq and thus Muslin name after Mosul.
• The 16th-century English traveler Ralph Fitch lauded the muslin he
saw in Sonargaon during the 17th and 18th centuries.
• Mughal Bengal emerged as the foremost muslin exporter in the world,
with Mughal Dhaka as capital of the worldwide muslin trade. It
became highly popular in 18th-century France and eventually spread
across much of the Western world.
• Nearly 200 years ago, Dhaka muslin was the most valuable fabric on
the planet. Then it was lost altogether
• During British colonial rule in India and Bangladesh, muslin weavers
were brutally treated and forced to weave other fabrics, while muslin
was imported from Europe. Figure: Joséphine Bonaparte, the first wife of
Napoleon worn Dhakai Muslin
4. Special properties Muslin
Lightweight: Muslins were originally made of cotton only. These
were very thin, transparent, delicate and feather light breathable
fabrics. There could be 1000–1800 yarns in warp and weigh 3.8 oz
(110 g) for 1 yard × 10 yard (0.91 m × 9.14 m). Some varieties of
muslin were so thin that they could even pass through the aperture
of a lady finger-ring.
Transparent: Roman courtier and author of the Satyricon
described the transparent nature of the muslin cloth as, the bride
might as well clothe herself with a garment of the wind as stand
forth publicly naked under her clouds of muslin.
Breathable: Muslin is a loose plain weave cotton material which
breathable.
Figure: Transparent Muslin fabric
5. Resurrecting of Muslin.
• The revival journey of the muslin was launched in 2018.
Bangladesh Handloom Board has launched “Revive Muslin”
project with a special team.
• Thus a research team with wings was initiated. One wing set out
to divulge into fiber part whereas another was responsible for
yarn & fabric.
• Most important element special cotton name Phuti carpas found
by the botanists in Kapasia, Gazipur.
• At first yarn is separated from fiber by ginning process
manually. Yarn is produced by hand spinning process. Muslin is
a plain weave fabric that is produced from pit loom or handloom
processes. 300- 500 metric count was used to weave muslin
fabric.”
• The research team has woven six muslin sarees in 2020. It is
expecting to launch the muslin saree in the market in the next
two years
6. Recognition of Muslin.
In 2013, the traditional art of weaving Jamdani muslin in
Bangladesh was included in the list of Masterpieces of Oral
and Intangible Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO
.
In 2020, it was given Geographical Indication (GI) status as
a product of Bangladesh due to efforts of the government of
Bangladesh, the fourth GI-certified product.
7. Future Prospects of Muslin.
As it is a matter of national prestige, the Bangladesh
government has given the project their backing and
launched muslin house at Rupganj. Here Government will
set 20 looms to start the primary production.
Phuti Karpas cotton fiber is being cultivated in different
places under the supervision of the Research team. And the
Cotton Board is associated with the whole process.
The government is trying to develop Muslin on a
commercial basis. The government will try heart and soul to
export muslin to foreign countries in small quantities at the
preliminary stage.
Figure: Weaving of Muslin fabric manually
8. Recapitulation.
• After 170 years, researchers and scientists
have been able to give rebirth to the precious
Dhaka Muslin fabric.
• Muslin – considered one of the great
treasures of the age– has not only been a type
of fabric for the Bengali people but also a
part of the rich heritage that was long lost in
the hand of British exploitation.
• Hopefully, Muslin fabric will be
commercially available after the next 2 years.
Figure: Yarn spun frim Phuti carpas.